The plaka is the core of Athens, and is a wonderfully funky, mostly inexpensive, accessible, kitschy, great place to be that is still not totally ruined by tourists - but has been overun in spots. Walking distance from everything. Narrow streets, twists and turns, little shops, balconies, cars on the sidewalk, people in the street, little museums, steep steps, human scale, active at night. What a city should be.